10 June, 2013

Going Gaelic OR Crazy for Connemara

All right, ladies and gents, it's time to live up to my Irish name and Irish wife by doing a post about, you guessed it...

Ireland.

Back when my wife was had rather recently become my fiancee, I found out there was a family trip planned for Ireland, and I was now invited. While I'd already met my future mother-in-law and future brother-in-law, there was a host of family friends I was going to meet on the trip.

I was also going to meet my future father-in-law, which was oddly fitting since he's actually from Ireland. And then I was going to spend a week traipsing around County Galway with them.

I probably should have been nervous. People more prudent than I am want to be would have expressed great trepidation at such a potentially disastrous situation.

Personally, I giggled at the word "trepidation"(it's fun to say) and instead got excited about visiting Ireland. Because I'm gonna be honest: I love Ireland. I've now been three times, and each time I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

But even with all that, I wasn't prepared for the sheer awesomeness of the Connemara.

The trips started simply enough. We got to Galway, then took a car ride west about an hour down the winding roads through the Irish countryside...

Irish wall
Very few fences.
Lots of stacked walls.

Irish field
Even more green than walls
Irish house
Everywhere you looked were "idealized Irish cottages."
Seriously. Like every other house.
(Btw, the blue in this picture is from the car window. That fence was white.)

The Irish countryside is splendid, and well worth it by itself. But we ended up on the western coast of Ireland, in a house we'd all rented outside the town of Clifden.

Clifden, Ireland
This direction: Rolling hills and cute village...
Atlantic coast
The other direction: Inlets and the Atlantic Ocean.
Clifden is near a section of Galway called the Connemara, one of the oldest and most Gaelic places in Ireland. The land is hit by the winds and storms of the Atlantic, and is a rough land that makes you believe in the old Irish tales of the faire folk.
Galway field
Even the tamed fields looked a little wild.

Near Clifden
This was down the path behind the house.

Rugged foggy mountain
This was the house across the street.
Borrowing a cup of sugar is an adventure.

Life's pretty quiet out there, which has it's own kind of incredible awesomeness. And the natural beauty had attracted a fair number of people who had set up grand houses there. A sentiment I totally understand.

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel
This small "castle" had been turned into a hotel

Ballynahinch Garden
But the gardens remembered the old Irish ways...

Ballynahinch Garden Plaque
...Even if the slightly-less-than informative plaque didn't.

One thing to note is that almost everything is made of stone, and for good reason. The stone not only withstands the weather, but there's a hell of a lot of it in the area. A lot more than there is wood.

Ballynahinch Stone buildings
Wood walls, houses, and roofs are for posers.
And not too far from Clifden is the incredibly awesome Kylemore Abbey.

Kylemore Abbey
Because nothing says "Nuns" like this place.
Kylemore Abbey was built in the late 1800s by a wealthy English doctor, who called it Kylemore Castle.

Kylemore Lake
"You know what this rugged area needs? A castle. Right here."
Through various events, the Benedictine Order purchased it in 1920, and an abbey was founded for Benedictine Nuns who fled France in World War I.

They're still there. They open the place for tourists and keep an incredible Victorian Garden. (They're also really nice and make tasty tea and biscuits in the tea shoppe, but that's beside the point.)

And on the way back from visiting this abbey, we decided to swing out to the coast, where the whole party randomly stopped at...

...a lobster hatchery.

No, really, I'm serious.

Lobster hatchery
Here's the work building...

Lobster pens
...and here are the lobster pens.
Yes, they're kept in pens. I was just as shocked as you.
Turns out these concrete pens are like large inlets, and the lobsters grow in there. Protected from the ocean and predators, they get incredibly big over the course of 1-2 years, and are normally eaten around Christmas.

So the farmer was overjoyed to sell us the whole party lobsters at the end of summer, especially since there were about 14 of us. And yes, the lobsters were incredibly tasty. Also, yes, I am glad that others volunteered to cook the live lobsters and gladly did dishes instead.

Finally, a word about Clifden itself:

If you ever get to Western Ireland, do yourself a favor and go there.

Clifden, Ireland
Enjoy the rustic village style and random obelisk monument.
It was a great place. The people were friendly, the food was good, the shops were great, and there was live music in at least 2 pubs every night.

Oh, and as far as meeting everyone in the family? I currently live about a mile from my in-laws, and we get along incredibly well. All of the family friends I met there are still close friends.

And I married my incredible fiancée, whose Irish father makes her a de facto Irish citizen, opening the door to living near Clifden.

Overall, I call that a pretty damn good trip.

No comments:

Post a Comment